The Key to the Perfect Bagel: Insights from the Experts

Everyone’s chasing the secret to the perfect bagel, but what does it truly take? At a recent panel, three industry leaders (Chrissy Traore, Jeff Yankellow, and Joseph Savelli) dug into bagel history, ingredients, and craft, sharing wisdom for bakers at every level.

Bagels: More Than Just Bread With a Hole

Chrissy Traore set the stage by capturing the essence of the bagel: “Bagels are more than bread with a hole… we don’t make bagels, because it is so special.” As the CEO and co-founder of See & Be Kitchen, a Catskills bakery focused on sourdough bread and croissants, she emphasized just how distinctive bagel baking is.

Joining Chrissy were:

• Joseph Savelli of Malt Products

• Jeff Yankellow of King Arthur Baking Company

The Magic of Malt

According to Joseph Savelli, malt is at the heart of a classic bagel’s flavor, texture, and color.
“Malt extract… gives you that toasted, slightly sweet flavor, changing your color, texture, aroma, and flavor.” For generations, New York and Montreal bagels have used malt to achieve their signature effects.

But what exactly is malt? Joseph Savelli explains, “Malt is malted barley grain. You take your barley grain and malt it so it sprouts. Then it's processed in a way similar to beer, up until the mash.”
There are also key differences:

• Diastatic malt contains active enzymes that help fermentation

• Non-diastatic malt offers flavor and color, without impacting dough proofing

For bagels, non-diastatic malt is the go-to, providing that subtle sweetness and boosting the chewy, caramelized crust without making the dough overactive.

Flour Power: What’s Right for Bagels?

When it comes to flour, Jeff Yankellow says, “If you want a nice chewy, New York-style bagel, typically high gluten is what you’re going to do.”
This means flour around 14 percent protein. More protein means more chew. However, he’s quick to add that there’s no single ideal bagel flour. These days, creative bakers blend flours, explore sourdough fermentation, and use regional wheat for unique characteristics.

“There’s a perfect flour for anything because these days you can make anything you want,” Jeff Yankellow shared.

He also notes that consistency matters, especially as you scale up. That’s why bakeries often rely on established suppliers like King Arthur. Local or regional flours add flavor and character, but blending them with a stable, high-performance flour is a great way to ensure consistent results.

Tips for Buying Malt and Flour

When sourcing ingredients, Joseph Savelli recommends:

• Always clarify if you’re buying diastatic or non-diastatic malt

• Ask if the malt is a pure extract or a syrup blend (which may contain corn syrup or other sweeteners)

• Consider storage and shelf life: powders last longer and are easier to handle, but liquids work better for boiling

Jeff Yankellow recommends connecting directly with your supplier, not just a distributor. “We like to connect with the customers… We want to support you and answer your questions.” King Arthur’s website is packed with guides and resources for bakers at every level.

Dough Conditioners and Additives

Some bakeries use dough conditioners, blends of enzymes, proteins, or chemicals like potassium bromate, for extra strength, volume, and tolerance. Jeff Yankellow explained that while these are common in New York, most benefits “can be achieved through good sound baking practices and fermentation.” He notes that potassium bromate is banned in some states and countries but still found in Northeastern bakeries.

High Altitude Considerations

If you bake at high elevation, you may need to adjust proofing and baking times since dough can rise faster and dry out quicker. Jeff Yankellow points bakers to King Arthur’s high-altitude baking resources for in-depth guidance.

What’s the Real Secret to the Perfect Bagel?

At the end of the day, Chrissy Traore, Jeff Yankellow, and Joseph Savelli agreed there’s no one recipe for perfection. As Chrissy Traore summed up, “Do what you want to do.” If your bagels are delicious and true to your style, and your customers love them, you’re already baking the perfect bagel.

Questions or want to dive deeper? Check out King Arthur Baking’s website or reach out to suppliers like Malt Products for advice tailored to your business or baking dreams.

Happy bagel baking!