The Art of the New York Bagel: A Step-by-Step Guide to Making the Perfect Bagel
This recipe is brought to you by Reva Castillenti, a renowned New York City bread baker and instructor. Reva has taught in some of the most prestigious kitchens in New York for over a decade, including Brooklyn Kitchen, where she led bagel, sourdough and other bread making classes. Reva’s bagels won second place at the World Bread Awards in both 2018 and 2019. Reva is passionate about sharing her knowledge and experience with others. Interested in taking Reva’s Perfect Bagel Baking Workshop? Learn more here.
New York bagels are renowned for their unique taste and texture, a perfect combination of a crisp exterior, chewy interior, and rich flavor that makes them irresistible. We'll take you through the process of making an authentic New York bagel, detailing the ingredients and techniques that make them so special.
The Essential Ingredients
A classic plain New York bagel is created using just five essential ingredients that come together to form the perfect dough, which is the foundation of a delicious bagel. These ingredients are:
High-gluten Flour - sold as “Bread Flour” in grocery stores. You want a flour with a minimum 12% protein content.
Water - from New York, if possible! Actually though - we’ll explore “Is It the Water?” in a later post.
Barley Malt Syrup - critical for the flavor, color, fermentation, and texture of a bagel.
Yeast - Instant dry yeast, which is widely available, works best.
Salt - Kosher salt works best, as it has a larger grain size than table salt.
Many bagel shops have developed their own tricks of the trade, using extra ingredients to produce high-quality bagels at scale. To learn more about these closely-guarded secrets, booking an NYC Bagel Tour or a Perfect Bagel Baking Workshop to delve deeper into the world of authentic New York bagels.
Measurements
These measurements will yield 6 bagels:
High-gluten Flour - 453 grams
Water - 250 grams
Barley Malt Syrup - 13 grams
Yeast - 2 grams
Salt - 10 grams
Use these ratios to scale up or down according to how many bagels you want to make.
Mix the Dough
The first step is to combine your ingredients to create the dough. Bagel dough is low hydration, meaning the water content is typically between 50-55% compared to the flour weight. Low hydration doughs require extensive mixing to ensure enough gluten develops. You can mix by hand, or mix with a stand mixer. However, we caution against utilizing your stand mixer too much, as the toughness of bagel dough can lead to a burned out motor.
With either method, start with by adding water, yeast, and barley malt in a large mixing bowl. Use water that is room temp to warm, but no warmer than 80℉. Stir until yeast is dissolved. Then add flour. Hold the salt.
Hand Mixing
Slowly stir in flour using finger tips until flour begins to form into a shaggy ball. Let dough rest for 8-10 Minutes. First, sprinkle salt across the surface of the dough but do not mix in yet and cover with plastic or a damp cloth. After the dough has rested, continue to knead on surface combing the salt until it forms a smooth ball and you cannot feel any granules of salt.
Stand Mixing
Mix on a low speed for 1-2 minutes, just until your ingredients are beginning to combine. Stop the mixer occasionally to scrape the sides of the bowl and to incorporate all of the flour into the dough mass. Once our dough has formed a shaggy mass, stop the mixer, sprinkle salt across the surface but do not turn your mixer on yet. After five minutes, turn your mixer back on to a low speed. After one minute, increase to a medium speed.
Once your dough has started to form a ball around the hook of your mixer, you might hear your mixer hesitate with each rotation. Stop and finish kneading dough by hand. If you finish this dough in your mixer, it might be the last time you use your mixer!
Bulk Ferment
Bulk fermentation is the crucial first stage where your bagel dough rises. At this stage, the dough is still undivided and unshaped. Let the dough rise for 1.5 hours.
Note that the dough's temperature significantly impacts the bulk fermentation time. Desired dough temperature is 75℉. Too warm, and your dough might over-ferment leading to flat bagels. Too cold, the dough might under-ferment, resulting in dense, chewy bagels.
Shape the Dough
Shape the dough into rings, creating the classic bagel shape. Each ring should be even and smooth to ensure a uniform final product.
Shaping the dough into bagels is an art in itself. Achieving the classic bagel shape requires a deft touch and an understanding of the dough's elasticity and consistency.
There are mainly two methods to shape bagels: the “rope and loop” method and the “poke and stretch” method.
Rope and Loop Method
This is the traditional method for shaping bagels and is often used by professional bagel shops. The process involves rolling the dough into a long rope, about 6-10 inches long, depending on the size of the bagel you're aiming for. The ends of the rope are then overlapped, pressed together, and rolled a bit to secure the joint. Learn more about how the pros do it in Bagel Rollers: The Masters Behind NYC's Iconic Delicacy.
While it's more difficult to master than the poke and stretch method, we recommend investing the time in learning this method. It requires practice and a skilled hand to perfect, but the unique looping and twisting motion involved in this method contributes to a superior texture in the finished product. The method may seem daunting at first, but with patience and practice, you'll soon get the hang of it.
Poke and Stretch Method
This is often the first method beginners resort to, perhaps due to its simplicity or because they're not aware of the traditional rope and loop method. The poke and stretch technique involves taking a ball of bagel dough and poking a hole in the center with your finger, and then stretching the dough out to form the classic bagel ring.
While this method is quick and straightforward, it doesn't give the dough the same level of structure or texture as the traditional rope and loop method. However, if you're just starting your bagel-making journey and not ready to invest the time to learn the rope and loop method, this method will suffice.
Practice Makes Perfect
Regardless of the method you choose, the aim is to create a smooth, even ring. It's essential that the dough is sealed properly, especially in the rope and loop method, to ensure that the bagels maintain their shape during boiling and baking. Remember, practice makes perfect. Don't be discouraged if your first few bagels don't turn out as expected. With time, you'll find the technique that works best for you, creating your ideal bagel every time.
Cold Ferment
After shaping the dough into rings, the next crucial step is cold fermentation. This process is also known as proofing or retarding. Place the formed bagels on a board or baking sheet dusted with cornmeal or cornstarch to prevent sticking. Then transfer to a refrigerator for a period of 24 hours.
Cold fermentation is an indispensable step in achieving a quintessential New York bagel. It allows the dough to rise slowly and develop deep, complex flavors. The process of cold fermentation leverages lower temperatures to reduce yeast activity, thus slowing the dough's rise. This gradual rise gives the gluten in the dough ample time to develop, leading to the distinctive chewy texture and flavor we love in bagels.
Cold fermentation requires patience but is an integral part of the process. The adage "good things take time" certainly rings true here!
Boil the Bagels
Once the cold fermentation period concludes, take the bagels out of the fridge. They are ready for their next transformative step: boiling. This step sets bagels apart from other breads and contributes heavily to their distinct texture and taste.
Preheat your oven to 475℉ and bring water to a boil in a large 6-8 qt pot. Boil your bagels for 30 seconds to 2 minutes, mixing them in the water continuously or flipping them halfway through. The length of the boil will depend on the desired end result. The longer the boil, the thicker the crust will be.
Why Boil?
Boiling accomplishes a number of key things. Firstly, it gelatinizes the outer layer of the dough. This means that the starch on the surface of the bagel gets cooked in the hot water, forming a barrier that locks moisture inside the bagel. This process also ensures that the bagel maintains its shape during the baking process, and it contributes to the bagel's signature chewy crust.
Should You Add Other Ingredients to the Water?
Many New York bagel shops boil in plain water, and you are free to do so yourself. However, you may also experiment with additives such as lye, baking soda, barley malt syrup, or honey to attain your desired end result. Each of these ingredients can alter the final product in the bagel-making process.
Lye or baking soda helps alkalize the water, which accelerates the Maillard reaction during baking. This reaction is what gives the bagel its attractive brown crust.
Barley malt syrup and honey are sweeteners that not only help with the browning process but also impart a subtle sweetness to the crust, adding depth to the overall flavor profile of the bagel.
Top the Bagels
Immediately after boiling is the time to add your seeds, spices, or other toppings to your bagels. Topping the bagels while still wet will help them stick effectively to the bagels' surface.
Traditional toppings include sesame seeds, poppy seeds, onion flakes, garlic flakes, or coarse salt. A combination of all of these, better known as “everything” bagel seasoning, is immensely popular. But the possibilities are truly endless. This step can be as simple or as complex as you desire, and is an excellent opportunity to showcase your creativity. Don't be afraid to experiment with different toppings and let your creativity shine through!
Bake the Bagels
After applying toppings, the bagels are ready to hit the oven. The oven should be preheated between 450-500℉. A relatively high temperature is necessary to achieve the distinctively crispy, golden-brown crust of a classic bagel. Bake the bagels for about 5-10 minutes, then flip over and bake for an additional 10-12 minutes. Flipping the bagels halfway through ensures even baking and coloration, helping to produce a uniformly cooked bagel with a consistent texture throughout.
Method for Bagel Shops
In a commercial setting, the bagels are typically placed on burlap-covered boards or paddles before being inserted into a preheated rotating rack oven. These burlap boards serve a couple of purposes. Firstly, they prevent the bagels from sticking to the oven racks or trays. Secondly, they help to absorb some moisture during the baking process, which aids in achieving that desirable crust on the outside, while still maintaining a soft and chewy interior.
Method for Home Bakers
For those baking bagels at home, it's not necessary to use burlap boards. A preheated baking stone or a baking sheet lined with parchment paper can work just as effectively. The key is to maintain a high oven temperature and remember to flip the bagels halfway through the baking process.
No matter the method used, the goal remains the same - to achieve bagels with a beautiful golden-brown crust on the outside, and a perfectly chewy, dense interior.
Cool and Enjoy
After baking, the bagels are removed from the oven and allowed to cool on a wire rack for at least 20 minutes - if you can resist! Once they've reached the desired temperature, they're ready to be enjoyed with your favorite spreads, toppings, or as the base of a delicious sandwich.
Conclusion
Making an authentic New York bagel is a delicate process that requires not only patience and meticulous attention to detail, but also a deep understanding of the ingredients and techniques involved. By carefully following these steps, you have the opportunity to recreate the singular taste and texture of a New York bagel in your own kitchen.
While the bagel, a symbol of New York's culinary landscape, is steeped in tradition and history, it's important to remember that there is no one "right" way to create a bagel. This is an artisanal craft, after all, and part of the beauty of it lies in discovering your own unique approach.
Each stage of the process, from shaping the dough to boiling and baking, offers a chance to refine your technique and add your own personal touches. Perhaps you prefer a slightly longer boil for a chewier texture, or maybe you're a fan of unconventional toppings. In the end, it's about finding what works best for you and celebrating the individuality that you bring to the craft.
So roll up your sleeves, grab your high-gluten flour, and invite a piece of New York into your home kitchen! The journey to create your own delicious bagels may require some practice, but the results are undoubtedly worth the effort.
For those who are eager to further their bagel-making skills and uncover the secrets behind the ultimate New York bagel, consider signing up for our interactive Perfect Bagel Baking Workshop. Under expert guidance, you'll delve into the finer details of bagel-making, perfect your technique, and begin to find your own voice in this time-honored craft.