The Jewish Deli: Tradition Meets Innovation in Los Angeles
At this year’s BagelFest West, a panel of Los Angeles’ deli luminaries joined food writer and deli historian Jeffrey Yoskowitz for a lively conversation about the past, present, and future of Jewish delis on the West Coast. Sharing stories, challenges, and the bigger cultural picture, the panel touched on legacy, adaptation, and the unique character of LA’s beloved Jewish institutions. Here’s a deeper look at the themes they explored, and what they mean for the future of the Jewish deli in LA and beyond.
Family, Legacy, and Deli DNA
Jewish delis are not just places to grab a pastrami on rye—they’re family businesses with stories as rich as their matzo ball soup. For many panelists, a deli origin story starts in childhood, working with parents and grandparents who built these culinary landmarks from scratch.
Jeffrey Yoskowitz set the tone, recounting how his grandfather was famed for chicken salad and coleslaw in Boston, and his father passed down both a love of Judaism and the art of “deli education” through frequent trips to the classic shops of Brooklyn. For some, like Jacqueline Canter of Canter’s deli, their deli’s roots stretch back a century, from humble beginnings in New Jersey to Boyle Heights and ultimately to the Fairfax district, evolving through every generation and technological leap—remembering a time before credit cards, and now innovating with delivery apps and ghost kitchens.
Others, like Debbie Ullman of Factor’s Famous Deli, described being “born into” the business and now shepherding it into its fourth generation, kids learning the ropes by clearing plates and working the bakery.
The LA Deli Is Born
What distinguishes Los Angeles delis from their East Coast cousins? As Jeffrey Yoskowitz wryly observed, in New York, you start with complaints; in LA, you start with pancakes, avocado, and salad menus. But far from mere novelty, the inclusion of vegan Reubens, gluten-free bagels, tofu dishes, and copious salads is less about trend-chasing than survival.
The panelists agreed: the LA deli is a reflection of its diverse, health-conscious, ever-evolving community. Newcomers bring expectations based on the old country or East Coast, but delis that have lasted adapted over time—keeping classic fare for the loyalists, while incorporating pancakes, stir fry, and even rare California staples like avocado toast to draw in modern diners. As Rob Magnin put it, “We really had to adapt and I think that's the way most delis think in this community”.
Beneath the joking rivalry between New York and LA lies a shared truth: the “dinerfication” of the deli is happening coast to coast. In the words of chef Eric Greenspan, “You can't be around for a hundred years and only serve goulash…You have to persevere, you have to survive, you have to carry on a legacy”.
Tradition as Foundation
Despite the ever-expanding menu, the concept of tradition—cultural, culinary, and communal—anchors the deli. Deli classics like pastrami sandwiches, matzo ball soup and cabbage rolls are perennially top sellers. The panel made it clear: innovation exists alongside, not instead of, these beloved standards.
As they discussed the future, the restaurateurs stressed the centrality of the deli to Jewish lifecycle events: Passover seders, Brit Milah, B’nai Mitzvahs, memorials, and comfort during grief. These are places where four generations may gather at once, traditions are kept alive, and the next cohort learns to love the classics. “Nothing’s going to change as far as all that goes,” observed Debbie Ullman. “If avocado toast isn’t enough, then the next thing will happen.”
The Deli as “Third Space”
Perhaps the most vital role the LA deli plays is as what Jeffrey Yoskowitz called the “secular synagogue”, a third space outside home and work, crucial for community and identity. Whether hosting singles events, trivia nights and bingo, or acting as a rallying point during difficult times, delis bring people together. Stories of celebrities, lifelong friendships, marriages, and even activism highlighted the deli’s ongoing relevance beyond food.
Eric Greenspan summed it up: “The future of the deli is the past…it’s very much about holding tight to those traditions and continuing to be pillars of the community.”
Looking Forward
As the panel concluded, it was clear LA’s Jewish delis are thriving not simply by preserving the past, but by renewing it, blending comfort and creativity, old world and new, kitchen and community. The result is a uniquely Californian institution: one that honors its roots even as it flowers in unexpected ways. Whether you come for the chopped salad or the corned beef, the trivia night or the bris, the spirit of the deli remains as vital as ever.